Ketchikan, Alaska was our first stop in the Inside Passage, a waterfront town with stilt houses, old buildings, and rainforest pressing in behind. Creek Street has a brothel-based history, but now it’s a wooden boardwalk with shops over the creek where salmon swim upstream, and there are totem poles scattered all through town. A tunnel that once doubled as a bomb shelter cuts through the hill, and our tour bus driver, who clearly wasn’t a fan of the cruise industry, made a point of pointing out the locally owned businesses instead of the many cruise-line jewelry stores.